Where does the power in the car go?

electricity in the car

There are several critical points in the car when it comes to electricity. They create problems that are incorrectly attributed to the battery.

Humidity and low temperatures are unfavorable conditions for electrical installations. Problems become especially acute when oxidation or corrosion occurs at critical points. It is worth looking at these places beforehand and possibly tidying them up so that they are not surprised at starting the engine in the morning.

Big current - big problem

The most common problem points are cable connections where high currents go (even several hundred amperes). This is the case for starters and alternators. Corrosion at the point where the earth cable connects to the motor causes the starter to spin slowly despite efficient battery life. Typical driver behavior is the decision to buy a new battery, which, apart from cost, often does not change much.

The first and easily visible point is the connection between the terminal and the battery terminal. They must be cleaned with white paint and best coated with fat. The following points are the connections of a bunch of cables (running from the battery) to the body and the drive unit. For these startup circuits to function reliably, there must be no corrosion in these areas. It is worth unscrewing the wires, cleaning the terminals and preserving them. A similar situation occurs when a positive conductor is connected from the battery to the starter. By the way, it is worth checking the condition of the wire insulation.

Two boxes

electricity in the car

In cars, there are usually two fuse boxes. Strong fuses are usually installed in the engine compartment, close by of the battery, while the rest - under the control panel. Battery fuses have a constant power supply and supply such circuits as: ABS, radiator fans, alternator, heaters, etc. For the remaining cars, electricity enters the vehicle interior. The connection of the fuse box located in the engine compartment where the current is stronger and the terminals are more susceptible to moisture and oxidation. In the case of the inner fuse box, there is sometimes a problem that water penetrates from the rainwater drainage space under the windshield. If there are problems with the operation of the lights, it is worth starting by checking their ground cables.

Battery connections

Even when viewed from the outside, an invisible white layer of oxidized metal can be between the terminal and the terminal of the battery. We remove it with a damp cloth, clean the contacts and coat everything, preferably with grease.

Battery fuse box

This box contains strong fuses (including radiator fan, ABS, air conditioning, engine computer). Due to high current and humidity in the engine compartment, oxidation of the contacts sometimes occurs. It is worth cleaning and preserving them.

High current cables

The first is the thick power for the starter, the other two wires are for grounding in between battery and engines and bodywork. The location of their joints is often highly corroded, leading to slow starting. You need to clean and preserve them.

Cabin fuses

Another fuse box is inside the car. In some models, water enters it from the outside, which goes under the windshield and when the drain of that water outside the body is closed. This causes the "madness" of all electricity. This place should be inspected and possibly protected. y


One Comment

  • Josip Tot says:

    everything is nicely explained only when it comes to corrosion, in my chevrolet ave sedan 1-2 53 kw 2008. I remove the minus terminal and put the clay between the terminal and the minus pole on the battery of the gloneroca light. I remove the connector from the contact lock, it lights up again, I take out the next connector half a meter away on the same cable, the clay does not light up. Between those 2 connectors, the thicker cables are routed to the 20A oscillator for the gate module, which I don't have. that part drains my new battery in 4 days, so the mass is ok. I took out all the fuses in the engine and cabin space one by one as well as the relays and the alumina was always lit, even when I took out that 20A fuse. separated the alternator and starter from the circuit the same thing, the alumina lights up. this is a good topic for public discussion because it is a matter of milli volts. thanks for your attention with the LP

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